CLIMBING GRADES. WHAT ARE THEY ABOUT?
by Ian Grimshaw
If you've only just started climbing and maybe
never been outside, or only on one or two trips, then listening to the more experienced
climbers at Sunbury burble on about "VS 4b", "El 5c" and
"Difficult" climbs would probably give you a headache. It's just like going
into a shop in Wales and everyone starts talking Welsh; you feel a bit alienated. But
don't panic: it's exactly like going into a shop in Wales. They don't know
what they're on about either (well, most of them anyway). But it makes them superior
doesn't it? - a language you know nothing about. Well, here's an attempt to
explain it, and in doing so, all I'll probably prove is that if anyone doesn't
understand it's me.
But then, if you knew exactly what to expect from a route you may as well climb at the
Castle every weekend. A little surprise now and then keeps us on our toes. Anyway, here
goes....
British grades are generally split into two parts: the overall or adjectival grade
(e.g., HVS = Hard Very Severe) and the technical grade (e.g.,
4c). The adjectival grade takes into account the overall difficulty of the route, which
may include its protection, exposure, strenuousness, remoteness, etc. The technical grade
indicates the difficulty of the hardest moves in a certain pitch. This double system tells
us more about the route - generally the coupling of certain adjectival grades and
technical grades are more common than others. Here is a list of climbing grades and their
common technical grades (only climbs Hard Severe and above are generally given technical
grades):
| Abbreviation | Adjectival grade | Technical grade (most common italicised) |
| E | Easy | |
| M/Mod | Moderate | |
| D/Diff | Difficult | |
| V Diff | Very Difficult | |
| HVD | Hard Very Difficult | |
| S | Severe | |
| HS | Hard Severe | 4a 4b 4c |
| VS | Very Severe | 4b 4c 5a |
| HVS | Hard Very Severe | 4c 5a 5b |
| E1 | Extremely Severe | 5a 5b 5c |
| E2 | Extremely Severe | 5b 5c 6a |
(Once you're climbing outside, and beyond this list, don't bother to worry about grades!)
A route graded HVS 5a will probably be well protected with its more
technical difficulties shortlived, whereas a route graded E2 5b probably has prolonged and
serious difficulties.
So then, routes with a technical grade at the lower end of the range will be sustained and
poorly protected, whilst those with grades at the upper end of the expected range will
have a short and generally well protected crux section.
To add more complications, there are of course regional variations. Grades in North Wales
and the Lake District are fairly comparative; a VS though on the limestone cliffs of
Swanage may be slightly harder; and of course a VS 4b in Scotland will be harder still.
The special skills and technical ability for gritstone make a VS 4b here something
completely different.
The best tip is to try different rock types at grades lower than your optimum. If you
climb E2 5b at Dancing Ledge on bolts I'd suggest you try a Severe at The Roaches and
a nice long V Diff somewhere in Scotland....
Confused? I am. If anyone would like to disagree with me, then feel free in the next
issue.