Swanage: May Day Bank Holiday 1999
by Anna Blacburn
The year's first trip to the south coast for the May Day bank
holiday weekend saw Anna, Margit, Ian and both Steves camping at Tom's Field. Colin
joined us for the Sunday and the team was completed by Greg, (whom Anna and Ian had met in
the Alps last year), his girlfriend Sarah and a couple who had "not climbed
much", Terry and Colin.
Having totally failed to locate Cormorant Buttress through the undergrowth - take a
machete next time - on Saturday we ended up at Blacker's Hole. Here there are lots of
E numbers but also a rather fun Severe, Zigzag. Terry seemed rather nervous so Anna led
the first pitch, Terry tied on the middle of the rope, and Ian hung firmly to the other
end. We were a bit surprised at Terry's reticence on the delicate, balancy slab and
that she didn't want to try pitch two, a lay-off flake, but later found out that this
was actually her first ever climb! Nothing like throwing people in at the deep end, as a
total beginner she managed brilliantly.
Steve Harrison and Margit also had the opportunity for a new experience: both celebrated
Bank Holiday Monday by successfully achieving their first leads on natural gear. Margit
led High Street (Diff) and later Pinnacle Crack (V Diff). Here there was a slight delay
whilst she tried to psyche a steep wall into submission: the route actually continued up a
staircase about a metre to the right. Pinnacle Chimney (V Diff), with an additional
section added by starting out from the low tide wave platform, provided Margit's
final lead of the day. Steve didn't appear to have any problems either so no doubt
they will both be shopping for shiny new gear in the near future.
The epic of the trip took place early on when Greg led the Steves up Ledgend (HS) at
Blacker's Hole and got off-route. The ensuing delay and a jammed rope meant that
Steve H was still on the rocks below at 7.30 pm and Greg was two hours late for his
rendezvous with Sarah. So Anna took over the belay whilst he jogged three miles to his
bivvi at Winspit caves, leaving Ian to pack up his gear. At last the Steves reached the
top and as darkness fell we raced off to the car and Swanage. We were much too late for
pub food and the first chippy we tried was already closed but we made another just in time
to get served. After this and a quick restorative beer we walked out to Winspit to return
Greg's gear.
At midnight by moonlight the caves were a bit spooky but the bivvi was very civilized with
candles, beer, etc. Terry and Colin even had a duvet!
Other events of the trip included (our) Colin's ascent of Old Lag's Corner (VS
4c) at Guillemot Ledge, which Anna pronounced very appropriate, and then got her
comeuppance by failing on it herself. Ian's lead of Isis, (VS 4c), which went off
route when it became a bit hard and then finished up an El 5a (!!). And Margit and
Steve's introduction to Avernus (S). This unique cavern climb led to the quote of the
trip from Margit: "If I come off now, I die!" Needless to say, she didn't
and emerged unscathed through the hole onto the cliff face, closely followed by Ian and
Steve.
The trip ended with ice cream and cake at the Durlstone Castle, and our attempt to
persuade Margit that we were going home by ferry. She refused to be convinced until we had
been in the ferry queue for an hour, entertaining ourselves with Steve's GPS and the
crossword. Finally we boarded the vessel for the voyage to Poole, bringing to a close a
good weekend for all. It felt as if the summer '99 climbing season had really begun.