Don't Mention the "C" Word!
Or some musings on the black art of Chimney climbing.
Paul Harrison
I was climbing in the Lake District recently and I was enjoying myself as I tried to squirm up the middle chimney crack of Corvus (S). It struck me that this was actually great fun. And I realised that I hadn't had the pleasure of a chimney for quite a while. There is something about chimneys that make most climbers flinch. At the mere mention of a chimney they will invariably tell you of the difficulty, the struggle, the seeming lack of progress in relation to the effort applied, but above all the unpleasantness of it all. But for myself I find the experience a thoroughly enjoyable one. (No, really I do!). I accept that, as techniques go, it must be one of the more unsavoury ones. One of those things that takes some time and much exposure to, to appreciate fully. In short, like tripe and Ian's jokes, an acquired taste.
As climbers get to know their techniques there are those they come to like and trust. Small crimps? Yes, eventually most climbers will develop enough finger strength to rely on them quite comfortably. What about laybacking? Jamming? Much tougher. But all techniques that can be learnt and applied with varying degrees of skill and certainty. (Some of the people I climb with, have little of either, unfortunately …). And grit? Oh dear. Now we are moving into different territory. Many are the experienced limestone leaders who have been turned into a jellyfish on a mere S or HS on Stanage … (Me? well enough of that). All those slopey footholds and nothing for your hands - horrible! - but for some reason I keep trying.
But chimneys! Dark. Damp. Desperate chimneys. Lovely! You ain't been climbing until you've struggled up one of these beauties. I'd make a fortune if I could write a manual on how to get up the things … but, like most climbers, after all these years, I still don't have a bloody clue. The only time when using your knees, bum and thighs are not only acceptable but mandatory!
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Fancy your chances? Then try the Swimmer's tick list : Trogledyte (V Diff) - Overbeck, Wasdale - "... providing a good wet day alternative. Potholing experience and a slim build a definite advantage on pitch 1." Kestrel Crack (HS 4a *) - Lower Tier The Roaches - "... gruelling chimney-finish ...". Corner Chimney on Direct Route (Vdiff ***) Milestone - 4th/last pitch - "The dreaded chimney arrives. A fickle thing, it resists entry until violated and then positively sucks you inside. Progress is made facing right, the exit facing left". Knight's Climb (V Diff) Acid Rock, Cheddar. - 2nd pitch - "The Raven Chimney. The chimney is tight at first but eases sufficiently to enable an exit to be made…" Armada. (HS *) Upper Raven Buttress, Dewerstone, Dartmoor. - 2nd pitch - "Awkwardly climb the wide chimney to the top. They don't teach you this on the climbing wall." New West Climb (VDiff ***) Pillar, Lake District - 4th pitch - "The opposing chimney above is climbed or thrutched, depending on ability or girth..." |
 "I will get out of here!" The author on pitch 2 of Troglodyte, Wasdale, using "traditional techniques". |